By Chef on Board – Kathy Casey
I smelled ‘em in the yard the other day—burgers on the barbie. YUM! There is nothing like a homemade grilled burger. Of course we all love the tasty, traditional, juicy ground beef burgers, but burgers can be just about anything these days!
Nearly every city has a hip and cool gourmet burger place serving everything from bison to organic turkey to fois gras-topped Kobe beef. And all are smothered with the hippest in toppings: brie cheese, local vine-ripe heirloom tomatoes in a rainbow of colors, homemade jalapeño-spiked pickle relish, crisp pancetta … the list goes on. Varieties of patties, buns, toppers and spreads abound, so don’t be afraid to get out there and try new things to expand your burger repertoire.
If ground beef burgers are your norm, then why not twist them up: stuff burger centers with a chunk of blue cheese, or mix in chopped fresh garlic, sautéed mushrooms, or zippy salsa. Try adding flavorings such as soy sauce, Worcestershire, Tabasco, barbecue sauce or fresh chopped herbs.
How about making a lamb burger? Mix the ground lamb with some whole-grain mustard, an egg, fresh herbs, garlic and a tiny splash of balsamic for a flavor pop. Top the burgers with roasted red pepper mayo, nutty-tasting arugula, and crisp slices of sweet onion. Or how about mixing things up with my recipe for Grilled Salmon Burgers piled high with Summer Slaw!
One of the other major components to a great burger is its bun. I adore any burger served up on a homemade bun! Yes, okay, it is a bit of work. But so worth it! My D’Lish Basic Buns are “rustic” so don’t worry about making them perfectly round. Once you make these buns you won’t want to go back to store bought.
Try making a double batch of buns and freezing the extras. Just individually wrap each bun in plastic wrap then pop into a freezer bag. When you’re ready to grill up these fluffy babies, pull out as many as you need and let them defrost at room temperature for 30 minutes to an hour or so.
My D’Lish Basic Buns recipe is very versatile, too! You can add extra garlic, chopped fresh rosemary, or minced jalapeños if you like a little spice. Get creative!
Once you decide what type of burger you’re going to make then you’ll want to be sure to prepare the grill . Here are a few of my burger-grilling tips:
• Be sure to season patties well!
• When forming the patties, remember, if you’re using beef, that they will shrink up, so make them flat and large.
• First be sure your grill is scraped clean. I use a “grill brush” to do this. Always remember to scrape away from yourself!
• I like to roll up an old dish towel, dip it in oil and then rub the grill before starting to heat it. This helps “season” the grill.
• Whatever type of grill you use, heat till grill is very hot before placing any product on it.
• Set the burger over the hottest part of the grill and flip only once.
• The spatula is for flipping patties, not for pressing them. Pressing squishes out those nice juices!
• Patties can be fragile, so handle carefully. Set patties a few inches apart from each other.
• Cook Gardenburgers or other vegetarian burgers over medium coals or flame and be careful not to char them—they dry out fast.
• If burgers are cooking too fast or you prefer a well-done burger, move the patty to a cooler part of the grill after the first flip.
• If you get a flare-up and have a lid for your grill, just pop the lid on. The reduction in oxygen should kill the flames. Some folks have a squirt gun filled with clean water handy to give excess flames a little blast.
Grilled Salmon Burgers with Summer Slaw
Makes 4 servings
Burger Mixture
1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless salmon fillet, pin bones removed (ask your fishmonger to do this)
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons minced onion
1 tablespoon minced fresh dill
1 teaspoon minced fresh garlic
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons dried bread crumbs
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
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D’Lish Basic Buns (recipe follows) or high-quality store-bought buns
Mayonnaise, tartar sauce or lemon aioli
Summer Slaw (recipe follows), optional
Any combination of burger goodies that you like, such as tomato, lettuce, onion, or thinly sliced cucumbers for garnishing
To make the burgers, chop the salmon well. (You can also cube it then pulse a few times in a food processor to coarsely chop—do not over process!) In a medium bowl, mix salmon thoroughly with the remaining burger ingredients. Divide the mixture into 4 portions and shape into 4 1/2- to 5-inch-diameter well-compacted round patties. Refrigerate the patties, tented, for at least 30 minutes or up to overnight to firm.
Prepare a very hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill to high. The patties are somewhat fragile, so handle carefully. Oil the grill, and set the patties apart on the grill. Cook for about 2 minutes per side, or until nicely marked and just done. Split the buns and toast lightly.
Spread the buns with mayonnaise or tartar sauce, add the burgers, and pile high with Summer Slaw and/or garnishes of your choice.
Recipe copyright © 2009 by Kathy Casey Food Studios® www.kathycasey.com
Summer Slaw
Makes about 2 cups
1 1/2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1 cup finely shredded green cabbage
1/2 cup finely shredded red cabbage
2 tablespoons coarsely grated carrots
1/4 cup coarsely grated, seeded cucumber, all liquid squeezed out well
2 tablespoons finely minced red bell pepper, optional
In large bowl blend together mayonnaise, sugar, vinegar, salt and pepper. Just before serving, add remaining ingredients and toss well.
Recipe copyright © 2009 by Kathy Casey Food Studios®
D’Lish Basic Buns
Makes 8 buns
1/2 cup milk
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons sugar
1/3 cup warm water (105° to 115°F)
1 package active dry yeast
2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 – 3 teaspoons minced fresh herb, such as dill, basil, rosemary or thyme, optional
1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic
2 1/2 cups flour
1 tablespoon water
In a small saucepan, bring the milk just to a simmer, remove from the heat, and stir in the butter and sugar. Cool, stirring until lukewarm. Add the warm water and yeast, stirring to dissolve the yeast. Let sit for 5 minutes, or until foamy. Pour the mixture into a large bowl.
Whisk in 1 egg along with the salt, fresh herbs (if adding), and garlic. Then mix in as much of the flour as needed to make a smooth, moist dough.
Turn out onto a floured surface and knead until smooth, about 6 minutes. Put the dough into a greased large bowl, cover with a damp towel or plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 1/2 hours.
Preheat an oven to 350°F. Punch down the dough and divide into 8 pieces. Form the pieces into balls and let rest for 10 minutes, covered with a towel. Then press out the balls, flattening into 4-inch-diameter rounds. Place on a greased baking sheet, spaced apart, cover lightly with a towel, and let rise until almost doubled.
In a small bowl, whisk the remaining egg with the 1 tablespoon water. Brush the tops of the buns lightly with the egg wash. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until golden brown.
Chef’s Note: The bun recipe makes 8 buns, so you can easily double the burger mixture or freeze the extra buns for later use.
Recipe adapted from Kathy Casey’s Northwest Table, Chronicle Books, San Francisco. Copyright © 2006 by Kathy Casey.